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Most of my food festishist friends have been greenly awaiting my report on my dinner Tuesday night--a 20-course pas de deux prepared by none other than His Holiness Thomas Keller and Alinea's divine own Grant Achatz, and served at The French Laundry.

If I had to sum it up in three words I'd say: warm bacon donuts.

They were otherworldly, as was the rest of the meal. Though I'm not sure that Homer Simpson would have enjoyed the other superlative culinary delights quite as much.

Where to start? The small knot of olive "fruit leather" that was just one weensy element of a complex taste-of-this-and-that dish? The eucalyptus foam gracing a perfect cube of, uh, turbo, I think it was? (Hard to keep it all straight when the champagne and wine keep comin'.) The china pot of warm coals and anise-scented wood chips placed alongside one of the courses just to get yer nose sense workin' too? Or the unforgettable spoonful of ravioli filled with an intense burst of black truffle sauce? Like the biggest best Chewel you'd ever be lucky enough to eat.

Then of course there was the translucently thin and crisp bacon slice wrapped in apple shreds and suspended from a kind of stainless steel tight-rope, not to mention an elegant long skewer with a mini gingersnap and kumquat primly balanced on its end.

My head nearly exploded when, after taking a bite of that last one, I sipped the cabernet it was paired with--leaving me pounding the table like a maniacal deaf-mute (or just someone with their mouth full) to get Mark to drink some of the wine--Drink it!! Quick!--right then too.

If it sounds like the eating of this meal was an experience both theatrical and physical, packed with over-the-top mini mouthful pleasures that Mark and I intentionally synchronized, well, it was. And we weren't alone. Our neighbors at other tables who'd been seated at times slightly staggered from us were all doing the same.

But hey, it's California. Instead of being embarrassed by the women next to me closing her eyes and whisper-moaning, "Oh, Maury!" to her husband after taking a mouthful of something, I leaned closer and grinned, "Pretty incredible, right?"

And all the food aside, there was a thrilling energy in the place that was enlivening in and of itself. This was a small group of diners who were willing to pay a silly amount of damn-the-economy money to eat this meal. The front of the house staff was caught up in it too. Their greetings from the moment we walked in were professional and impressively personal--"Good evening and welcome, Mr. and Mrs. McClusky"--while at the same time sparkly-eyed and genuinely gleeful, "What an exciting night we're about to have!" It was as if we'd all be clapping our hands and squealing if it weren't for the fact that we were gussied up and wanted to respect and blend into the intimate quiet elegance of the restaurant's decor.

I mean, it was, after all, The French Laundry.

Plus, Mark and I added our own dose of joy to the scene. Celebrating Mark's involvement in the Alinea book, the thrilling sense of his belongingness in this foodie-heaven scene, the anticipation of the epic meal stretched before us and, well, just the us-ness of us and life and happiness and the holidays.

Mind you, we didn't spend the whole meal mooning over the food alone. Towards the end at least there was teen-like texting taking place with friends and some emailing photos of courses. And finally we ended up in the kitchen drinking champagne while the chefs and front of the house staff ate In-and-Out and drank what I saw to be at least one Pabst Blue Ribbon. Go figure.

If merrymaking behind the scenes wasn't fun enough, I had to break the we're-such-insiders spell temporarily and insist on having our picture taken with the two chefs. Was it not, after all, monumental to be chatting casually with none other than Thomas Keller?  And that gay Italian guy from Sex in the City--Mario something or other, I think--he was there for a bit too, grabbing Mark's iPhone at one point and hooting that its red and white plastic case was "Soooooo gay!"

All terribly good fun.

The last thing I want to do is disparage a Tuesday evening around Casa McClusky, but let's just say they usually aren't on par with this particular night.

We stumbled giddily into the Surh's at 1:45AM, me doing a not-super-sober loud whisper to Mark, "He asked me if we would come to their holiday party! Me! Thomas Keller personally invited ME!"

The girls were camped out asleep in the room where Mark and I were also crashing. No problem, since we bunked this way in Kentucky and all went swimmingly, right?

Well, first Paige got up, which I was okay with. I hadn't fallen asleep yet, so I figured I'd feed her then she'd sleep through the rest of the night.

Uh, no.

Kate and Paige managed to do a remarkable tag-team of waking up and loudly demanding attention of one kind or another. "EH-EH-EH," Paige's nurse-me siren, followed by Kate's, "Mama, are there monsters?" or some other such question or stuffed animal complaint. Rinse and repeat about eight times.

Like a speed-addled volley ball team the four of us rotated beds, with me and Kate on the floor at one point, Paige, Mark, and I in the bed, Mark and Kate on the floor. Statistically work out all the possible configurations we hoped would result in someone--anyone--getting some sleep, and we did it. With enormous lack of success.

At 4:30 Mark whisper-hissed, "This is ridiculous. Let's just get them in the car and drive home." So imagine us tossing armfuls of formal clothes, diapers, toys, toiletries and baby blankets into bags, trying to not wake up our host family any more that we were certainly already doing over the course of the prior three hours.

Finally, with the car packed and me in Mark's t-shirt and a pair of jeans, we convened in the hallway by their front door. "I need shoes," I said--it being freezing this time of year deep in the heart of a Napa night. Mark motioned to my stilettos by the door--a look I was unwilling to settle for even under these circumstances--prompting my memory that my clogs were by the back door in their garage. (It's a shoe-free house.)

I handed a still happy clapping all-too-awake Paige over to Mark and said, "I'm getting my clogs in the garage." A comment he told me later he never heard. In the frigid pitch black garage I also feel around for Kate's yellow Crocs in a sea of the three resident children's Crocs. And leaning down I move away from where I'm holding the house door open just enough for it to slide closed.

And of course, it locks.

So here I am in the cold cold cold dark, shoes on now, thank you, but having gotten so damn close to our get-away and suddenly trapped in the garage.

Light taps on the door to the house and my hoarse whisper, "Mark? Uh, Mark?! I'm locked in here!" Nothing.

Days go by. Or perhaps just five or so minutes.

And finally, the door opens with Mark holding Paige and Kate peering around his leg. "What the hell are you doing in here?" he hisses. As if I'd just wanted a few minutes of Me Time in their garage before we made our middle-of-the-night our-kids-are-possessed escape.

All I could do was laugh. I laughed for the first ten minutes of the car ride home at how utterly absurd it was that our amazing evening ended with an utter lack of McClusky Family sleep and we were leaving our friends with not so much as a kitchen table note to return to our own home where at least the girls had their own bedrooms to lie awake in, and there might be some slim ray of hope that familiarity would breed slumber.

Home at 5:30AM. I got a half-hour's worth of shut-eye in the car, but by 5:45 when we climbed into bed Mark had not slept yet at all. Two hours later, Paige woke up, again in her irrepressible good humor, which by that point we found utterly obnoxious.

Mark staggered to the shower and heroically readied himself for work, as I went through the motions of changing Paigey's diaper and dressing her for the day.

And man, could I have used a stiff pot of French press coffee and about a dozen of those mini bacon donuts.

Last week, while Mark was in Neuva York slumming  his way through dinner at wd-50 alongside Gourmet Magazine editor Ruth Reichl, food critic Geoffrey Steingarten, Chef Grant Achatz and other foodie luminaries, our neighbors took pity on the girls and me and had us over for pumpkin-carving and pasta.

In a rookie-level tactical error, I fed Paige before the rest of us sat down, then realized I'd dashed any hopes of her sitting out our meal patiently from her high chair. Employing an Italian-American approach to problem solving, I looked for some more food I could stuff into her.

Did they possibly have any Cheerios, I asked. "I think so," said Jennifer. But then looking at the box, "Oh, but they're the sugary Honey Nut ones. Will those work?"

Mark and I fully embrace the No Sugar for the Kids so There's More for Us patented approach to childrearing. So, I paused for a brief moment before my own desire to eat uninterrupted won out and I succumbed.

At nine months, Paige is proficient at swiping Cheerios off her tray and even picking them up with her pincer grasp, but she still hasn't had the I-can-put-these-in-my-mouth-all-by-myself realization. So after I inserted the first-ever dose of sugar into her innocent little bouche, her eyes widened, and she excitedly tapped her fingertips together, signing "More! More!"

It was the first time she's signed! I've only been trying to teach her a few signs--more, all done, milk--seeing as, well, seeing as I only know a few myself.

And earlier in the day when she got all babbling arm-waving hopped up looking at some pumpkins I asked her if she'd like to touch them, and wonder of wonders she reached right out and she did!

Call it parental goofballness, but it is amazing to get those first hits of two-way communication with your little bundle of chub. It's not like you don't expect it to ever happen, but after nine months of feeding and bathing and diaper-changing marked only by intermittent smiles and laughs--which don't get me wrong are akin to a narcotic for a sleep-deprived Mama--after all that it's still thrilling and freaky and somewhat unbelievable when you suddenly get confirmation that there is in fact someone in that baby body. And that they are listening.

Jennifer and I encouraged Paigey to sign "more" a couple more times to validate that, yes, she was in fact doing it. Woo hoo! I gave her a million proud kisses all over her head like she was some prize-winning Basset Hound at Westminster.

Of course, it's been nearly a week and she hasn't signed a single time since. Granted, she also hasn't had any more Honey Nut Cheerios. 

I'd just like to say that I'm prouder than the mother of an honor roll student. Proud of my husband Mark, that is.

Back when Kate was a few months old, she and I tagged along with him on a work trip to Chicago. Maybe I have some Nordic blood I'm not aware of. Something that drove me to bring my wee tender infant to Chicago on a winter weekend that served up record cold. As if thrusting this defenseless small thing out into blasting bitter winds and inhuman sub-zero temps was some cultural rite of passage that if she managed to survive would result in her being given a secret name from a tribe elder.

But really I think it was just me wanting to get out of the house.

Yeah, so anyway, we went there and it was chilly. And we stayed in a schmancy hotel. And the first night Kate arcanely (and cruelly) managed to wake up every hour at the same exact time (3:14AM, 4:14AM, 5:14AM) forcing me to stick a boob in her mouth to quiet her down because Mark had to wake up the next day with some hopes of having slept enough to be an intelligent functional journalist. Those few nights comprised perhaps the most miserable ones of my infant mothering.

But all that aside, Mark and I did go out one night to an amazing restaurant called Alinea to eat the most decadent, fascinating, and theatrical meal of our lives. All 25 or so courses. Not to mention the 15 wine pairings. (But really, after the eleventh glass of wine, who can keep count?)

In fact, the business behind Mark's trip to Chi-town was that he was interviewing that restaruant's chef, a guy in his early thirties named Grant Achatz who's a disciple of His Holiness Thomas Keller, and a frontiersman in the realm of molecular gastronomy. That scientifically-alchemized and post-modernistically presented haute gourmet food utterly unlike anything your mom used to make. And food that many moms--from my mother's generation at least--might never appreciate the staggering artistic and experiential merits of. (I can hear my mother now: "You've got to be kidding me! For the price of that coo coo meal you could've put a down payment on a perfectly good house!")

So, after that trip Mark wrote a story for Wired about Grant. They stayed in touch. Gourmet named Alinea the best Restaurant in America. Grant was named the Best Chef in the U.S. by The James Beard Foundation. Grant got cancer. He started work on a cookbook. He asked Mark to write an essay for the book. Grant also asked Geoffrey Steingarten and Michael Ruhlman to contribute. (This, by the way, is like being invited to play golf with Tiger Woods and, well, some other really amazingly super good and well-known golfer.) Grant's cancer, blessedly, went into remission. The book, Alinea, went on sale over a week ago and I believe is now in its fourth printing. I'll resist the cookbook/selling/hotcakes metaphor-pun.

I can't imagine people are snatching it up because they're in a rut about what they've been serving for dinner and want to mix things up a bit and wow the kids with some Surf Clam with Nasturtium Leaf and Flower with Shallot Marmelade. Or maybe have the neighbors over for Sunday football and some Foie Gras with Spice Cinnamon Puff and Apple Candy.

The book has a "How To Use this Book" intro, and it actually says that they do want you to venture to produce some of its recipes. But it's unlikely that any non-professionals (aside from one blogger with a lot of time, patience, and ambition) would do so. Hence the brilliant term "coffee table cookbook." Aside from the complexity of the number of components and steps and even the staggering grocery gathering that'd be required, you'd also need a kitchen stocked with a madman's array of chemicals plus state of the art hi-tech equipment that can do things like turn fresh parsley into powder or make Gob Stopper shaped spheres filled with unexpected innards, like say, curry sauce. Or Concord grape. Or, heck, both.

Not that that's a recipe mind you, but this book is packed with similarly mind blowing match-ups that you could never in your most drug-induced Suessian dreams conjure. And if you ever have the very very good fortune to eat at Alinea--something you really should try to do before you take all your foods up through a straw--you won't believe you're actually eating these sublime things all together or that you love how they taste.

And for God's sake if you do eat there, be sure not to go with your mother or your brother-in-law or whoever it is who'll be too freaked out by the food's novelty or who's an unadventurous eater or is even just an old school party pooper. Or maybe on the other hand, bring them along! Require them to just shut up and eat, and watch as the kitchen and the front-of-the-house staff knock their damn socks off! I promise you the next day they'll quit their 17-year run at the accounting firm, hop a flight to Fiji and take up kite surfing.

But oh, where was I? The book. The book. I'm telling you, it's like that. It's not just like flipping through the utterly comprehensive and practical yet curveball-less Joy of Cooking. It takes you places. This is not a cookbook that you buy for your friend who likes to cook, although he certainly will love it. Buy it for someone whose culinary specialty is a toasted bagel and know there will be something that will floor and amaze even her--not to mention the people who come across it on her coffee table.

There's science! There's art! There's technology! There's food! There's stunning photography! And there's my husband's name. Right there on the cover page.

So recently I suggested you make a contribution to help fund breast cancer research. Today I'm advising you to go out or go online and buy this book. Not because I want to help sales for Grant or for Mark, though they are nice guys and God knows Grant is a fascinating and crazy hard-working genius. But because this book could boost your cool quotient exponentially. Not to mention the effect it could have on many of the folks on your holiday shopping list.

Help cure cancer, save your soul, then impress your friends. You can thank me later.